Let's make. . .

Let's Make . . . A Pie for Mikey

2011-08-12T20:58:00.001-07:00

My usual bedtime ritual is to read Twitter on my phone as a way to settle down. Late last Sunday night a tweet regarding someone I didn't follow but knew of through her lovely blog, www.injennieskitchen.com, mentioned that Jennifer Perillo had lost her husband. As more details emerged it became apparent that he had died suddenly of a heart attack, leaving behind a young wife and two little girls. This hit home. . .hard. I don't know Jennifer in real life but I intimately know this. This pain of sudden loss. The way a little girl suddenly losing a daddy colors the rest of your life with what ifs and whys. It hurt my heart that these little girls would know the pain I knew. . .my dad died the same way when I was six and my sister was ten. We were forever changed. I had a hard time sleeping that night and this was on my mind all the next day. . .I felt out of sorts. . .it felt so strange to be so affected by someone I didn't know. This is what makes the Internet a truly beautiful place. As people far and wide offered Jennie Perillo love, hugs, hope, tears, help, or simply said they were sorry for her loss - people who would actually start their message by saying, "I don't know you . . ." it made me realize that even if we don't know someone in real life, it doesn't mean we don't share a common thread of human experience and that we can't reach out to each other.

Jennifer posted a beautiful tribute to her husband. In answering all the questions of how people could help her, she asked that people make Mikey's favorite, Creamy Peanut Butter Pie.

So I did as she asked, and I made a pie for Mikey. It was a cathartic experience. . .I thought about love, loss, dads, sweet little girls, hope, and how sharing a painful experience can make the weight a little lighter. I made mini peanut butter pies - little pies to share with people while telling them the story of Mikey and his wife, Jennifer Perillo. . .who I've never met but who touched my heart deeply.

Jennifer's Blog Post and Peanut Butter Pie Recipe

Let's Make. . .my Last Meal on Earth

2010-04-14T19:31:00.000-07:00

I have been neglecting my poor little blog. My new computer and my camera can't seem to communicate so I have a back log of recipes and photos. I don't want it to look like my blog is abandoned. . .so I thought I'd share this little essay - inspired by the book My Last Supper by Melanie Dunea and sitting around a bonfire with friends talking about what our own last supper might be. . .

Well, if I know I am going to die and I am not freaking the hell out, then there is some sort of magic going on. In that case, I will believe the magic will encompass the whole day. My dream last day/meals on earth would go down like so:

I would wake up to the smell of fresh, hot buttermilk biscuits and bacon. My nana and uncle Earl would be in the kitchen talking about the day ahead and the chores that need to get done. I would watch my uncle break a biscuit in half, dab butter on a corner and take a bite. He would eat the biscuit like that as he always did; dabbing butter on each bite. I would break my biscuit in half, marveling at the flaky layers and spread it with butter and homemade peach jam made with peaches from my nana’s orchard. I would not take this communion for granted and realize how lucky I was to have such amazing things to eat each morning. I would then help my uncle make his dog’s food – broken up biscuits drizzled with hot bacon grease – a meal his sweet dog, Prissy, ate every day of her long life.

As the magic continues, I would then be in the kitchen of my abuelita’s house. . .I can hear the lilting tones of her, my aunt Julie and my aunt Petra speaking Spanish. The smell of chiles and warm, fresh masa hang in the air. I am peeling silk off soaked corn husks and making a pile that diminishes as each woman takes a corn husk, spreads a dollop of masa and fills it with tender pieces of pork and a green olive. They gossip and work, laughing and arguing as only sisters can. A giant steamer hums along on the stove, piled with plump, fat tamales. My abuelita plucks a tamale out of the steamer and makes me a plate, untying the ends of the tamale and opening it up, the vapor redolent of cumin and sesame seeds. She spoons a small lake of smooth and creamy refried beans. . .the best refried beans on the planet – the beans I dream of to this day. I eat. She asks me in her broken English, “Are you satisfied?” I grow sleepy and she tucks me in on the little couch in the corner of her kitchen, wrapping me up in a thick wool blanket that smells of life in the kitchen.

As the day closes out, I am on the back lawn of my sister’s house overlooking the Puget Sound. There is a long table with benches; it is covered with beautiful food. A giant bowl of Matt Colgan’s Bolognese with the half rigatoni that Phoenix no longer makes. A platter of cheeses, fresh baguettes and perfectly ripe summer fruit. A soup terrine filled with my abuelita’s simple vegetable soup with tiny albondigas floating in it. A bowl of chile verde with hot, thick freshly made corn tortillas and more of my abuelitas beans. Bannie’s fried chicken. A perfectly ripe watermelon from Spurlin and Jewel's patch. A peach cobbler made by my nana with freshly churned vanilla ice cream and a Red Earth Cake made by Bannie Faubion – the best baker I have ever known. A white Burgundy I had once at La Folie and have never forgotten. Cold, fresh whole milk with the creamy cap in thick glass bottles sitting in buckets of ice. On my lap is my most beloved cat, Mouse. I am feeding him pieces of pork from the chile verde. My darlings LouLou and Ferghal are at my feet, any and all pets that have come and gone are there. Everyone I have ever loved and who loved me back is there and we are sharing this magnificent feast. We are happy at our good fortune. As the sun fades on my last day and my loved ones walk away from the dining table, I walk down to the dock and watch the water. . . and slowly, peacefully fade away.

Let's Make . . . Breakfast for Dinner!

2010-01-28T19:27:00.000-08:00

One of my favorite scenes in any movie EVER is the scene in Moonstruck when Olympia Dukakis is making breakfast and makes the Italian version of Toad in the Hole with roasted red peppers, crusty Italian bread and an egg in the middle. It's so simple but no matter how many time I see that scene, it always sends me straight to the kitchen.

Since good Italian bread is hard to come by in Oakland, I substitute my homemade focaccia and since I like my eggs spicy, I use Calabrian chiles to give me that nice peppery hit. I get my eggs from Glaum Egg Ranch every week and they are delicious. When you're making something so simple, best ingredients are of utmost importance.

Breakfast for Dinner

1 slab of focaccia or 1 piece of crusty Italian bread, sliced about 1" thick
butter
olive oil
hot calabrian chile or roasted red pepper
ranch egg
salt & pepper

heat your skillet over low heat. Add a knob of butter and a slug of olive oil and heat gently. Cut a hole in the middle of the focaccia or bread, making sure it's wide enough so the egg is not too thick (not taking care to do this will result in runny whites). Add the bread to the pan and heat until the bread starts to become crusty. Add another small knob of butter into the middle of the hole and place the chile or pepper pieces in the center. Crack an egg into the hole and season with salt & pepper. Cook the egg until it starts to set towards the middle. Carefully flip the bread and cook the other side until the white of the egg is cooked through but the yolk is still liquid. Dust with salt & pepper. You can serve this with bacon, sausage or ham but I like to dip the crispy, buttery bread into the yolk. Mmmm.

Let's Make . . . Dinner for One

2010-01-21T18:08:00.000-08:00

A Few Simple Ingredients

I will cook my heart out for other people. Yet, I tend to be miserly with myself. Since my culinary partner in crime has been on the road, I don't cook for myself at all. Cheese & crackers or Chinese Take-Out have become the norm lately. My wonderful friend, AJ, gifted me with a gorgeous bone-in pork roast from the Fatted Calf and I contemplated that lovely piece of meat for a few days before I decided what I wanted to do with it. My first impulse was to keep it simple. This meat is gorgeous. . no need to gussy it up or manipulate it too much. Here I will make a confession . . . I don't believe in brining pork. I believe it makes the meat flabby. I think a good dry rub is the best thing you can do for pork.

The following "recipe" comes courtesy of my first serious boyfriend. His mom was a foodie before there were foodies. His family were our next door neighbors and I watched her cook through their kitchen windows all my life - multiple Le Creuset pots and pans simmering away on the stove top. I always wondered what her kitchen smelled like. His and mine relationship was based solely on food. . his eating and my cooking. The classic "the way to a man's heart is through his stomach" kind of relationship. One day I bought a gorgeous pork tenderloin and was contemplating what to do with it. He announced that he would share with me his mother's favorite recipe for pork. My heart raced - a glimpse into my muse's culinary treasure chest. . . and he proceeded to give a recipe I had known for years. . .Marinade Seche from the icon of my life, Julia Child. So much for muses. This recipe is simple, simple, simple. It loves pork and pork loves it! Back in the day, ground bay leaves were not readily available so I would grind them by hand . . .what can I say, I thought I was in love. Also, the recipe says the garlic is optional, but in my mind it is not. The recipe also calls for scraping the marinade off the meat prior to cooking. . I never did that.

Marinade Seche (Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume I)
(per lb. of pork)

1 tsp salt
1/8 tsp freshly ground black pepper
1/4 tsp ground thyme or sage (I use a mix of the two)
1/8 tsp ground bay leaf
pinch of allspice
Optional: 1/2 clove mashed garlic

Mix all the ingredients together and rub into the surface of the pork. Place in a covered bowl. Turn the meat 2 or 3 times if the marinade is a short one; several times if it is of long duration.

GORGEOUS Pork Roast

There is a thick fat cap that I would never dream of taking off. I rubbed the marinade in and let it rest overnight. I brought the roast to room temp and then roasted it for about 1 1/2 hours. Pulled it out of the pan and deglazed the pan with a sprightly apple cider. I reduced the cider and then whisked in a dollop of grainy dijon mustard. I mounted the sauce with some beurre manie (equal parts soft butter and flour mashed together and whisked in to thicken the sauce).

As a side, I had some farro that had been cooked in double strength chicken stock. I cooked some Nueske's bacon lardons, removed them from the pan, added some chopped shallots and savoy cabbage. Once the cabbage wilted a bit, I added some diced Granny Smith apple and continued to saute. I added the farro, salt and pepper. Once the farro was heated through, I added back the lardon and a handful of freshly grated Emmenthaler cheese. I sliced the roast, placed it upon the bed of farro and spooned the cider/mustard sauce all around. I drank a cinsault/grenache rosé with this meal and it was perfect.

Dinner for One

Let's Make . . . a Turkey Ballotine

2009-11-30T16:17:00.000-08:00

This year, my mom hit me with the words that strike terror in my heart:

"Let's go to a restaurant for Thanksgiving this year."

Now the reason that this strikes terror in my heart is that I am sort of a control freak. The thought of leaving my Thanksgiving dinner to the hands of some overworked prep cook is beyond my comprehension. I know I need to get over myself. . .being as it was just going to be my mom and myself I should have just thrown in the kitchen towel and picked up my buffet plate. But I just could not. I felt like I was paying for my last Thanksgiving wherein I actually had my whole family around the table. . .a feat that had not been accomplished in almost ten years. Last year I had a great Thanksgiving and I was determined to have the same this year.

Since it was just the two of us, I thought I'd get a breast and fill it but somehow I ended up with a whole turkey. Fine. I decided to make a ballotine filled with a pork/turkey/egg yolk force meat. I roasted the bones to make a rich turkey pan jus to put over the slices of ballotine. It was delicious! Although next year I'd like a giant 20 lb. turkey and a table full of family and friends. :)

I got a small, organic Willie Bird turkey. It weighed a little over 10 lbs. Here is the process of boning the turkey:

Lovely little turkey - ready to be rid of it's bones. I am using my trusty global filet knife - great for boning out large birds. You run your knife carefully from one end of the back bone to the other and gently using your knife and fingers, work against the bone, using your knife to free the meat from the bone. You'll be surprised by how much of this you accomplish by just using your fingers and sense of touch. If you're squeamish about touching raw meat, use latex gloves.

The whole turkey boned out (please note that the "oysters' are intact - it takes a pro to pull that off!) - the only bones left are the leg bones which require careful work - you push the meat and bones towards you and then scrape the meat off with your knife.

The wing tips, Pope's Nose, Back and Breast Bones to be roasted to make stock.

This is the bird with all the bones, including the leg and wing bones removed.

All the dark meat removed - thigh meat reserved for forcemeat - ready to stuff.

Turkey thighs ready to be made into forcemeat!

Forcemeat!

Cook's bonus! Making sure seasoning is correct is a tough job!

Preparing the turkey to be filled - slit the thickest part of the breast so the thickness is uniform

Pound the turkey gently to get uniform thickness, being careful not to break the skin

Spread the force meat evenly over the seasoned turkey meat

Here is where I had to improvise because I could not find my trussing needle. . .usually you would sew the seams of the skin together in a "y" shape. Since I did not have my trussing needle, I rolled the ballontine which was fine but I would have rather sewed it. . .to seal one end I had to do this:
*hangs head in shame* Yes, it's true, I tied the leg skin in a knot. SHUT UP!

This is the rolled and tied ballontine - traditionally they are poached in broth or roasted - I fried mine!

GORGEOUS!!!

The finished product. . crispy skin, rich filling, tender and juicy meat!

Let's Make . . . Pumpkin Marmalade

2009-10-18T16:04:00.000-07:00

I have somewhat of an addiction to pumpkin. I love it! When fall rolls around, my mind turns to what I can do with this lovely little squash. This year I decided to make a marmalade with it and am very happy with the results. I use it as part of a composed dessert - Caramel Pudding, Brown Sugar Crema, Pumpkin Marmalade, Pepita Brittle and Pumpkin Gobs. See? PUMPKIN! My chef sometimes has to pull me back from the abyss and tell me to go easy with the pumpkin. :) I brought a little home the other night; added some ruby port and golden raisins, cooked it all together a little bit to let the raisins plump and the port to burn off and served it with roasted pork tenderloin - it was really very good!

Pumpkin Marmalade

10 cups granulated sugar
enough water to moisten sugar
1 cup cold water
8 small sugar pie pumpkins
2 organic navel oranges, thinly sliced
1 organic lemon, thinly sliced, seeds removed
3 granny smith apples, peeled and cut into small cubes
kosher salt
1 2-inch finger of fresh finger, sliced
3 4-inch pieces of Mexican Canela (ceylon cinnamon), broken in half (you can sub Cassia but I will cry)
2 nutmeg pods, smashed with a kitchen mallet
1 tablespoon whole cloves
Cheesecloth
Juice of one navel orange

Prepare the pumpkins by cutting them in half (I use a double handled cheese knife to do this - an excellent way to get rid of any agression) and cleaning all the seeds out. Place flesh down on a roasting pan, pour a small film of water on the pan and roast at 350 just until barely tender (about 45 minutes). Let the pumpkins cool. While the pumpkins are cooling, place the sugar in a heavy stainless steel pot and use just enough water to moisten the sugar. Cook the sugar to a dark amber. Remove from heat and add cold water to stop the cooking process - it will splatter so be very, very careful. Set aside. Process the oranges and lemon in a food processor until finely diced. Add the apple pieces and process gently.. you don't want the apple pieces to be as fine as the citrus pieces. Using a ceramic loop tool, gently scrape the pieces of pumpkin from the shells in long, even pieces. Dice into 1/2 inch pieces. Toss the citrus, apple, pumpkin and a good pinch of salt together. Set aside. Using a piece of cheesecloth and some butcher's twine, make a spice sachet with the spices and ginger, tie it up securely. Put the fruit mixture atop the sugar, nestle the sachet into the center. Tent with a vented parchment round and cook over low heat for two and 1/2 hours, stirring the mixture half way through. Remove the spice sachet, gently stir in orange juice and let cool to room temp before removing from the pan.

Dark Amber Caramel

A note on tools: If I were to one day morph into an Edward Scissorhands type creature, these are the tools I'd want for my hands. . . of course, there is the standard Y-peeler, a Dexter-Russell serrated paring knife which would cut down a whole wild boar if needed and a ceramic loop tool - perfect for coring any fruit with a core, removing the choke from an artichoke and generally being one bad ass cooking tool - all for the paltry sum of $2.99 at your local art store.

Processed citrus and apples

Using the ceramic loop to get uniform strips of pumpkin

Dice the pumpkin in even pieces

Toss everything together

Make spice sachet

Everything in the pot all cozy like

Parchment tent

Half way there - give it a stir!

Done!

Let's Make. . . Bucatini Carbonara

2009-08-12T07:25:00.000-07:00

A few perfect ingredients!

This is a super quick, really satisfying meal. Ingredients are very important here because there are so few. . .farm fresh eggs, the best pasta you can get your hands on and excellent bacon or pancetta are key. Also, the cheese is key as well. Best ingredients, 15 minutes to prepare and probably one of the best dishes ever. This is Marcella Hazan's recipe which I think is the best recipe. No cream, no peas, no f'ing around. . straight up delicious.

Bucatini Carbonara

1/2 lb. pancetta or bacon, cut into 1/4 inch strips (I like to use Nueske's bacon)
4 garlic cloves
3 T. olive oil
1/4 cup dry white wine
2 large eggs
2 egg yolks*
1/4 cup freshly grated romano cheese
1/2 cup freshly grated pamigiano-reggiano
freshly ground black pepper
2 T. chopped Italian parsley
1 1/4 lbs. pasta - Marcella says it must be spaghetti but I like to make it with Phoenix Pasta's bucatini

Smash the garlic cloves, remove the skins and leave whole but smashed. Heat the olive oil, add the garlic and saute until the garlic is dark golden. Remove the garlic and discard it. Add the pancetta or bacon to the garlic scented oil and cook until they start to crisp around the edges (I cook it longer. .until it's crispy - I prefer it that way). Add the white wine to the bacon and cook for 2 minutes or until the alcohol smells burned off, turn off the heat.
In the same bowl you're going to add the pasta, combine the eggs, yolks*, cheeses, a VERY generous grinding of black pepper and parsley. Whisk well. Cook the pasta in well salted water to taste - I like my a little beyond al dente. Right before the pasta is done, heat the bacon mixture on high until very hot. Drain the pasta and immediately add the hot pasta to the cheese/egg mixture. Toss quickly and then add the hot bacon. Toss again and serve immediately with extra cheese and a pepper grinder handy.

* the extra yolks are my own idea. . the original recipe simply calls for the two eggs.

Delicioso!

Let's Make. . . Chile Verde

2009-08-11T07:16:00.000-07:00

Chile Verde is one of my favorite Mexican stews. . .slow braised pork nestled in a roasted tomatillo sauce. . what could be better? Years and years ago, when recipe boards were a novel idea, someone asked for a recipe for chile verde. I posted one, adding the pinch of sugar my abuelita always added. That caused a riot of sorts. . .suddenly the recipe was not "authentic" because true chile verde or even salsa tomatillo would NEVER have sugar in it. Well, perhaps these people knew more than me or my grandmother but this is HER recipe and to me, it's authentic, sugar and all!

Chile Verde

3 lbs pork meat, butt or shoulder (I like butt *chortle*), trimmed, cut into 2" cubes
4 tablespoons olive oil or freshly rendered pork lard
2 lbs tomatillos, husked and rinsed
1/2 white onion, whole
3-4 green onions, white and green parts (remove roots after roasting)
2-3 poblano chiles
2 jalapenos (or more depending how spicy you like your food)
6 cloves garlic, unpeeled
1 bunch of cilantro
1 teaspoon dried Mexican oregano
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground toasted cumin
1 1/2 cups chicken stock or water
salt, pepper and a big pinch of sugar

Char is IMPORTANT!

Heat a comal, griddle or broiler and toast/roast the chiles, onion (flesh side down), garlic cloves (in husks) and tomatillos. Place the chiles in a plasic bag or bowl covered with plastic and let steam to loosen skin. Remove chile skins. Peel the toasted garlic and place the tomatillos, onions, chiles, garlic and cilantro in a blender and blend until you have a somewhat smooth puree. Set aside.

Don't overcrowd the meat to get a nice even brown!

Season the meat well with salt and pepper, brown meat cubes, doing so in batches so the meat browns nicely. Remove meat, set aside.

Be careful of splatters!

Turn the heat up and add the tomatillo salsa to the pot, it will splatter so use caution. Heat and reduce by 1/3. Add the meat, cumin, oregan, sugar, salt & pepper and the stock or water. Return to a low simmer and cook until the meat is fork tender - about 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Taste sauce and adjust seasoning.

Serve with warm tortillas, rice, beans and avocado.

Let's Make. . . Rice (uh, what?)

2009-08-10T07:15:00.000-07:00

The Culprit

I don't really believe in psychotherapy. The whole "tell me about your parents" thing doesn't really make sense to me. While you might be influenced by your parents, eventually you reach an age and awareness where you have free will to make your own decisions. At some point, it's not mommy and daddy's fault you're f'd up, it's your own. The one thing I will plant firmly on my mom's shoulders is my obsession with good rice. You see, mom was a convenience cook. Betty Crocker Au Gratin Potatoes (heck, I used to like to eat the little potato wafers...like a giant super crispy weird ass potato chip), Bag N' Season Pot Roast (it's nubby, weird reconstituted green and red peppers and thin sauce), Pork Chops cooked in Lipton's Onion Soup Mix, Company Chicken made with Campbell's Cream of Mushroom Soup. . . all those I can live with. . in fact, sometimes I crave those things something fierce - especially Company Chicken. But one thing I never could get past was the dread MINUTE RICE. Sweet Mary Mother of Jesus, I hate that stuff. Reconstituted rice from which all texture and flavor has been removed. It wasn't until I was in 3rd grade that I learned the true delights of rice. I went to my friend Feli's house and her mom served chicken adobo over rice. It was a complete revelation for me. Feli's family was Filipino and like any good Filipino family they had a giant rice cooker from which scoops of steaming hot rice emerged. . .rice actually smelled good. It actually had texture and flavor. Oh my!

Being as I came from a non-real rice household, I had a hard time learning how to cook rice. I got all kinds of advice. .. get a rice cooker (um, no, not in my house . . . I was the only one so rice obsessed) measure the rice, cover it with enough water to come up to the first knuckle of your pinkie finger (index finger, pointer finger, etc. etc.). . . being as I have smaller than average hands, that never worked for me. Boil the rice in the water, turn it down and simmer for 15 minutes. Boil the water, add the rice, cover, boil for five minutes, take off heat and let rest for 15 minutes. .. a million different ways but none of them consistently gave me good rice. One day it dawned on me to read the package. .. uh, yeah...for long grain white rice it's two to one. . two parts liquid to one part rice. Boil the water, add the rice, cover tightly and simmer for 20 minutes. Remove from heat, let rest five minutes, fluff with fork. Et voila - perfect rice. I always add a dash of salt and sometimes a little nub of butter but that's pretty much it. Same for a rice pilaf, saute the rice with whatever aromatics you're going to use but the liquid/rice ratio stays the same. Perfect rice every time. Or I guess I should say perfect REAL rice every time. I am partial to Mahatma extra long grain white rice. . .sometimes I just eat it plain with butter or soy sauce just 'cause I can.

Perfect Long Grain White Rice

2 cups water (or chicken broth)
1 cup long grain white rice (I love Mahatma)
pinch of salt
nub of butter (optional)

Boil the water in a small pan with a tight fitting lid. Add rice, salt and butter, if using, and stir to combine. Bring the water back to a simmer, cover, put on lowest heat possible and cook, undisturbed (that means DO NOT lift that lid!) for 20 minutes. Remove from heat, let rest for five minutes. . fluff with fork (or alternatively, just eat by the forkful out of the pot!)

Leftover Boeuf Bourguignonne over plain ol' delicious white rice!

Let's Make. . . Beef Bourguignonne

2009-08-09T17:05:00.000-07:00

I have long planned on making this on the day that I go see the new Julie and Julia movie - little did I know what a big part this dish plays in the movie! Julia Child has always been an icon to me. There is a thread on Chowhound asking about people's "favorite Julia Child" moment and this is what I wrote, I wrote it off the cuff without thinking too much about it - it is straight from the heart:

"I know many, many people talk about how Julia influenced them and it's true for me as well. Julia came on PBS in the afternoon when I awoke from my nap and I loved her. . my mom would sit me in front of the television and I would watch, mesmerized by her - I loved her voice. When I was 14 years old I started to cook my way through Mastering the Art of French Cooking. To me, it was the greatest form of self-expression. It built my confidence and taught me what a pleasure it is to feed people food that your hands have created. When I wanted to go to cooking school after high school, I was told that I was "too smart" to be a cook. So I shelved those dreams for a while, all the while cooking out of Julia's books - Baking with Julia and Julia's Master Chef series. She was always so close to my heart. I finally went to cooking school later in life and actually met Julia Child once. She was doing a book signing with Jacques for their new book and I swear to god, for me, it was like meeting the Beatles! I was shaking and teary-eyed and as sweet and charming as Jacques was, I only had eyes for Julia. She looked me in the eye, asked my name, signed my book and then took my hand and it was electric. . . it's as though she instinctively knew how much she meant to me and she smiled. I tell you now, I almost fainted. I was working as an executive pastry chef at a vineyard in the middle of nowhere on August 13th 2004 - 18 hour day in an off-site kitchen that was very isolated. As I got in my car to drive home, I had many hang ups on my cellphone voice-mail. Weird. I was heading home - my commute was an hour. I turned on NPR and there was the dulcet tones of my beloved Julia. I was so happy and thought that they were doing a show about her since her birthday was coming up. Then they announced her death. I had to pull over and cry. And cry. And cry. The hang ups were loved ones trying to reach me to tell me about her death - not wanting to leave it on voice-mail to upset me. She left an indelible mark on my life and I just adored her."

As with almost every recipe I have ever made, I make the recipe as it is written and once I've made the recipe once, I kind of do my own thing from then on. As much as I adore Ms. Child I will say that the recipe layout of Mastering the Art of French Cooking is clunky and hard to follow. You have to keep in mind that when the book was published, it was groundbreaking and the layout best guides a cook new to a cuisine through the steps necessary to accomplish the correct results. There are points in some recipes where I actually question why I would have to do them. . . in the end, trust Julia. . .she was thorough and the recipes are meticulously tested and if you follow them, you will get good results. The following recipe is 75% Julia and 25% me. Two points that I have found imperative to perfect results are drying the meat well and roasting the meat/vegetables/flour to achieve the proper depth of flavor.

Boeuf a la Bourguignonne Julia/Lainie

1 lb. thick sliced bacon, cut into 1/2 inch lardons
4 lbs. beef stew meat, cut into 2-inch cubes
2 carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
2 yellow onions, diced
1/4 cup flour
1 750ml bottle red wine, Burgundy or any other robust red
4 cups beef stock (avoid canned if at all possible, if not, use low sodium)
1 T. tomato paste
4 garlic cloves, chopped finely
bouquet garni consisting of two bay leaves, one sprig of rosemary, 1 sprig of thyme, 1 teaspoon of black peppercorns and 2 sprigs of fresh parsley

2 lbs. mushrooms, quartered

Preheat the oven to 450F.

Prepare a bouquet garni by wrapping the herbs and peppercorns in cheesecloth and tying it with butcher's twine.Roll it up into a tight bundle.

Pretty!

Heat a large dutch oven, add bacon and cook until the bacon is fairly crispy.
Mmmmm, bacon!

Remove the bacon from the pan and ladle out about 3 tablespoons of the bacon fat. Set aside. And by aside, I mean move the bacon out of your reach or it's entirely possible to end up with less bacon then you need due to cook consumption. Ahem.

Dry the meat thoroughly - you can use paper towels but I have had great results with the lint-less bar mops I use in my kitchen.

Place a few pieces on a cutting board and season well - you want to do this step right before you add the meat to the pot - this is important. Add a small amount of olive oil to the bacon fat and heat until the the fat is almost smoking.

Add seasoned pieces of meat to the pot, being very careful not to crowd the meat. Leave it alone.

Let it brown well and when little dots of blood start to rise to the surface of the meat, turn the pieces and thoroughly brown the other side. Remove meat to a sheet pan and repeat the process until all the meat is browned. properly caramelized meat - lots of flavor up in there!

Add the onion and carrot to the hot pan and saute until the pan is deglazed of all the lovely brown bits.

Pour out any extra fat, leaving the vegetables in the pot. Take half the bacon and add that and the browned beef to the pot. Season with salt and pepper and sprinkle the flour over the meat and toss until all the meat is coated with flour.

Place in the oven and roast for 5 minutes. Remove from the oven, toss the meat around to expose new pieces to the direct heat and roast again for 5 more minutes.crusty!

Remove the pot from the oven and reduce the heat for 325F.

Stir the wine, stock, tomato paste, garlic, and bouquet garni.send the bouquet garni to it's winy grave.

Bring to a simmer atop the stove, cover and place in the oven. Regulate the heat so that the liquid barely simmers and cook for 2 1/2 to three hours until the meat is very tender when poked with a fork.* done!

Towards the end of the cooking time, prepare the mushrooms: Heat up the reserved bacon fat in a very large, heavy pan. When it's almost smoking, add butter and quickly add the mushrooms - doing it in batches if necessary to prevent overcrowding - maintain the heat on high and saute, the mushrooms should be sizzling. Season with salt and pepper. The mushrooms will give off liquid but the pan should be hot enough to reduce the liquid almost immediately - cook until the mushrooms are well browned and dry.no liquid left!

Add the remaining bacon and a handful of parsley. mmmmm bacon and mushrooms!

When the stew is done, remove the bouquet garni. thanks for all that flavor!

Pour the stew into a sieve set over a bowl.First time I did this, I forgot the bowl. :(

Pick out the pieces of carrot and discard (Julia does not do this, but I cannot stand mushy carrots so I pick them out - they've done their job flavoring the sauce). Put the meat aside and pour the sauce into the pot, skim any visible fat and reduce until you achieve a thick sauce so that when you run your finger across a wooden spoon your finger leaves a trail that does not close.Nappe!

Season the sauce and add the meat back to it, delicately napping the sauce over the meat. Place on a large serving platter and top with mushroom/bacon mixture. I am taking this to a friend's house so it stays in this and can be heated in the oven as is.

*if you can stand it, this stew is better the next day so you can cook it to that step and refrigerate overnight and finish the remaining steps the next day.

I like to serve this with pan roasted baby potatoes:

Pan Roasted Potatoes

1 lb. small red potatoes
1 lb. small yellow potatoes
1 stick butter
salt & pepper
handful parsley, chopped

Cook the each kind of potatoes seperately in highly salted water until they are tender. Remove from water and let cool on a sheet pan.

In a heavy pan, melt the butter until it's bubbling. Add potatoes to butter and turn heat to high. Shake the pan to roll the potatoes in butter and season well with salt and pepper.

Do this in batches if necessary so the potatoes are always in contact with the pan and wipe pan between batches, starting with fresh butter each time - cook until they are sizzling hot and the skins are crispy. When all the potatoes are cooked, toss with parsley.

Let's Make. . . Fruit & Oatmeal Sundae

2009-08-08T10:10:00.000-07:00

Now you might be grumbling about how this cannot be dinner. . .it might not be dinner to you, but it is my dinner more often than I care to admit. At work, we have family meal at 2pm. When I have the time to participate in family meal, I am usually left quite full for the rest of the day because they like to throw down the culinary gauntlet. At about 8pm, I get a little hungry. Since I get up so early everyday, eating a big meal is not an option and I don't like cold cereal. I have hated oatmeal all my life until I took it upon myself to figure out a way to prepare it so I could find it at least palatable. What I realized is that all I had been exposed to was either quick cooking oatmeal, which has no texture or gluey overcooked oatmeal reminiscent of wall paper paste. The way I cook it now leaves me with a drier (as in not pasty) but tender cereal with a slight al dente texture. I have quite the sweet tooth in the evening so this is my alternative to eating something bad for me - such as a bowl of ice cream. That's why I call it a sundae - you know, to psyche myself out. In the end, the contrast between the warm oatmeal, creamy greek yogurt and sweet fruit is completely satisfying.

Fruit & Oatmeal Psyche Out Sundae

3/4 cup thick-cut organic oatmeal (I get mine at The Food Mill)
1 1/2 cup vanilla soy, rice or almond milk
pinch of salt
1 4 oz. container Fage 2% Greek Yogurt
Fruit of choice - in the picture I have white nectarine, mariposa plum & blueberries
Honey or I really like raw dark agave - it has a lovely almost smoky element.

Combine the oatmeal, milk and salt in a saucepan with a tight fitting lid. Bring to a boil and then lower to a simmer until all the bubbles have gone and the mixture looks somewhat dry, about 8 minutes. Remove from the heat, set aside, covered, to steam and allow the oatmeal to absorb the extra liquid. Place hot cereal in a deep bowl, top with yogurt, drizzle with honey or agave and top with fruit.

Let's Make. . . Twice Baked Potatoes

2009-08-07T09:38:00.000-07:00

There is an Italian cookie called Brutti Ma Buoni. . .translation: ugly but good. These could be called that as well. . they ain't pretty but they are really delicious. This is a super basic recipe that is completely open to interpretation. Potatoes are a chameleon of the cooking world, they sort of take on whatever flavor you want to throw at them. I think of this version as quintessentially American. But you could make them with ground chicken or turkey browned with a little chorizo, pepper jack, roasted zucchini. . .for a Tex-Mex profile. You could roast a ton of your favorite vegetables, mix them with herbs and top them with goat cheese. You could use ground lamb, Greek oregano, roasted eggplant and feta for a Greek flavor profile. The possibilities are endless. This isn't fancy food but it's sort of soulful and it's definitely tasty. The pictures here are for a large batch I made for Tim to take on the road with him. They keep well and can be popped in a microwave to heat up. . . I personally do not believe in microwaves but I am told they exist. I did a whole photo essay but even just editing them almost put me to sleep. . the steps are basic and boring but the result are delicious.

Twice Baked Potatoes
4 large russet potatoes, scrubbed
1 lb. ground beef
1 stick butter
2 bunches of scallions, thinly sliced white and green parts
1 jalapeno, minced - remove the seeds and ribs if you don't want too much spice
2 cloves garlic, finely minced
1/4 bunch Italian parsley, finely chopped
4 oz of cream cheese - I use the lower fat neufchatel with good results
3 oz. of sour cream or greek yogurt
1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
1 bunch broccoli, steamed to your liking
Sharp cheddar cheese, thickly sliced

Bake the potatoes at 375 for two hours. . . you want them to be completely tender (btw, I do not poke my potatoes to bake them. . I find they come out fluffier if they don't lose any steam - I haven't had a any exploding potatoes). Set aside to cool slightly. Meanwhile, brown the meat, seasoning with salt and pepper. Once it's completely cooked, set it in a colander to drain well. Once the potatoes are cool enough for you to handle, split down the middle. Scoop the warm potato pulp into a large bowl, leaving behind 1/8 of an inch of potato in the skin. You are going to use all the potato pulp but only six of the potato skins so pick the best ones and discard two. In the same pan you cooked the meat in, melt the butter. Brush the inside of the potato skins with melted butter and season the skins with salt and pepper. Heat the butter to bubbling and add the scallions and jalapeno. Cook until the scallions are tender then add the garlic and saute for about two minutes. Tip the scallion mixture, butter and all into the bowl of potato pulp. Add the cream cheese, sour cream and Parmesan with some salt and pepper and mash all together being careful not to over do it or you'll end up with a gluey mass. Adjust seasoning. Fold in the meat, then fold in the broccoli. Stuff the potato skins with the potato mixture making sure to pack it in well. Place a thick slice of sharp cheddar cheese atop the potato and bake at 350F until heated through and the cheese is melted, about 1/2 an hour. Serve with a nice green salad.

Let's Make . . . Roasted Vegetable Fideos with Swiss Chard

2009-08-06T16:48:00.000-07:00

How to explain fideo. . . first of all it's a sopa seca, which in Spanish means literally means "soup dry" or dry soup. It's pure simple comfort. I've seen it referred to as a casserole on the interwebz but I would liken it more to a Mexican style pasta pilaf. No matter, in the end you'll just call it delicious!
look at that chicken stock!

Roasted Vegetable Fideos with Swiss Chard

4 ripe tomatoes, stemmed and halved

1 white onion, 1/2 whole, 1/2 diced finely

8 cloves garlic

2 jalapenos, split

1 large carrot, peeled and diced in 1/4 inch pieces

1 green zucchini, diced in 1/4 inch pieces

1 yellow zucchini, diced in 1/4 inch pieces

1 bunch swiss chard, stemmed and cut into 1/2 inch chiffonade

garlic olive oil*

olive oil

1 7-oz. bag fideo

4 cups chicken stock (homemade if at all possible)

1/2 bunch cilantro

avocado slices, crema, cotija cheese (or parmesan)

* Garlic Olive Oil
2 cups olive oil
10 garlic cloves, chopped finely
heat olive oil until hot. Place garlic into a heatproof container and pour olive oil over garlic, stir and let cool. Garlic will settle to the bottom. Spoon olive oil from the top. Store in refrigerator for up to one week.

Place fideo in a single layer on a baking pan and low (275F) until nicely toasted. Set aside. (you can fry the noodles but I like it better toasted in the oven.)

untoasty
toasty!

Place the tomatoes, onion and jalapenos cut side down and roast on high until bubbling. Add the garlic cloves at this point and continue to roast until tomatoes, onion and jalapenos are caramelized.
roasty!

Let cool and puree in a blender until smooth.

Toss carrots with garlic oil, season with salt and pepper, roast until tender, about 20 minutes. Toss the zucchini with garlic oil, salt and pepper and roast (making sure they are not too close together) until tender, about 10 minutes or until tender.
Heat some garlic oil in a heavy bottomed pot. Add swiss chard, salt and pepper and saute until tender. Remove from pot, set aside and wipe out the pot. Heat olive oil in the pot and add diced onion. Saute until translucent. Turn heat to high and add fideo, stirring and coating evenly with oil. Fry until noodles darken.

more toasty!

Add tomato puree and stir until noodles soften and puree thickens.

ready for the stock!

Add chicken stock and simmer for about 20 minutes, stirring frequently. The noodles will absorb the stock.

ready for the vegetables!

When there is barely any stock left, add the roasted veggies and swiss chard, distributing veggies gently. Add cilantro and adjust seasoning as needed. Let rest, uncovered for 10 minutes - the noodles will absorb the stock.
perfect!

At this point some cooks stir in crema and queso cotija. I like it simply dressed with fresh cilantro and cool avocado slices.

Looks like dinner!

Let's Make . . . my favorite simple pasta

2009-08-05T17:53:00.000-07:00

When I say this is my favorite simple pasta dinner, I have to add that modifier because my favorite pasta is Spaghetti Bolognese which is not, in any way, a simple pasta. This one though. . this is a taste of summer. .. fresh basil, lemons, good fruity olive oil. It can be made in 12 minutes. . .it'd be shorter is the pasta cooked faster!

Five Simple Ingredients!

Spaghetti al Limone

8 oz. spaghetti (I like to use Rustichella)
juice of 2 lemons (half regular/half meyer if they're available)
2/3 cup olive oil (nice, green and fruity)
1 1/4 cup Parmigiano Reggiano, freshly grated
salt and pepper
Lemon zest from one lemon
1 cup of fresh basil leaves

Heat a generous amount of water, season like the sea with kosher salt. When the water is boiling vigorously, add the pasta.
While the pasta cooks, hand tear the basil leaves into a small bowl and add the lemon zest to the basil. Drain the spaghetti once it's cooked to your liking and return it to the warm cooking pot. Whisk the olive oil with the lemon juice until it's lightly emulsified. Whisk in the parmiggiano - it will become somewhat creamy. Season with salt and lots of freshly ground pepper and toss with the pasta until all the pasta is coated. Add the basil and lemon zest, toss well and adjust seasoning if needed. . at this point you might want to add a small pinch of red pepper flake - this is how I like it but the person who taught me how to make this says it "compromises" the integrity of the dish. I won't tell if you don't! :) Also remarkably good with this pasta is roasted prawns added as a condiment.

Simple and utterly delicious!

Let's make . . . a dinner out of leftovers

2009-08-04T15:52:00.000-07:00

So yesterday was my mom's meatloaf birthday dinner. My favorite thing about having meatloaf for dinner is the leftovers. I love nothing better than a meatloaf sandwich. Cold meatloaf, thinly sliced on homemade white bread with homemade mayonnaise. Yes, please!

Here is a recipe for my favorite simple loaf of white bread. It's as quick and easy as a yeasted bread can be - great flavor, great crumb and very easy to make - I use rapid rise yeast with good results.

I also am including my favorite mayo recipe. . . because let's face it, when you have three ingredients (if you don't count the slices of dead ripe brandywine tomato I added) in a sandwich, they should each be their own little islands of deliciousness so when put together, the sum of parts is incredibly delicious!

Good Old Fashioned White Bread
(I think I got this from Fleischmann's years ago)

6 cups unbleached all purpose flour
3 T. sugar
2 pkgs RAPID RISE yeast
2 t. salt
1 1/2 cups water
1/2 cup milk
2 T. butter

Combine 2 cups of flour with the sugar, yeast, and salt in the bowl of an electric mixer. Melt the butter, add the milk and water and heat to very warm. Add to the yeast mixture and beat until smooth using the paddle attachment. Add 1 cup of flour and beat until combined, scraping down the sides of the bowl. Change to the dough hook and add enough of the remaining flour to form a soft dough that grips the dough hook and cleans the sides of the bowl. At this point you can either knead the dough by hand for about ten minutes or knead it on the mixer - I've done both with identical results. When the dough is smooth and elastic, cover it and let it rest for 10 minutes. Divide the dough in half and press it into a rectangle and shape the dough by rolling it tightly like a jelly roll. Pinch the edges together and place the dough into lightly greased 8 1/2 by 4 1/2 loaf pans. Proof until doubled, about 45 minutes. Bake at 400F for 25 to 30 minutes. Remove to cool on wire racks.

Julia Child's Food Processor Mayonnaise
We learned how to make mayonnaise by hand in school. . as I beat the ingredients together to form the emulsion, all I could think about was this recipe and how I wish I could just make this. This is the first mayonnaise I have ever made and it's still my favorite!

1 egg
2 egg yolks
1/4 t. dry mustard
1/2 t. salt
1/2 t. lemon juice
1/2 t. white wine vinegar
1 cup excellent olive oil
1 cup vegetable oil
freshly ground white pepper

Using a steel blade, process the egg and yolks for 1 minute. With the machine running, add the mustard, salt, lemon juice and white wine vinegar. Combine the two oils in a measuring up. If you have a Cuisinart, there is a little hole in the white sleeve that fits into the feeding tube - this hole is there to use when making emulsified sauces. Pour half the oil into the white sleeve and continue processing until the mixture has emulsified. If it is too thick at this point, add a little more vinegar, then continue with the rest of the oil. Season as needed with more salt, pepper and/or lemon juice or vinegar.

I have no pictures for this post as by the time I baked bread and made mayonnaise I was starving. Suffice to say that these sandwiches are what heaven is made of!

Let's Make . . . Mom's Birthday Dinner!

2009-08-03T14:18:00.000-07:00

The Birthday Girl rockin' her new Snuggie!

I am a classically trained chef. I can pretty much cook anything. I am not bragging - I seriously can throw down on most things and do it well. As my mom's birthday approached, I was prepared to go to yet another steakhouse (mom is seriously into meat and potatoes) but she said she wanted me to cook her dinner. As I rubbed my hands together in anticipation, I asked what she wanted. . .visions of caprese salads, gnocchi al pesto, Bistecca alla Fiorentina swam through my mind and taste buds. .. "I want meatloaf, mashed potatoes and peas." *insert sound of slide whistle here".

oh.

man.

Okay, fine. Simple is good. I have made quite a few meatloaves over the years - fancying them up with ground bacon, ground pork, ground veal, sauteed mushrooms, pancetta wraps, etc. But I think my basic one is pretty damn good. It's simple and delicious. So while this blog post is in no way groundbreaking, it is beautiful in it's simplicity.

As I prepared the pie crust for the inevitable birthday "pie" my mom always request, I was thrown for a loop when I called to ask her what kind of pie she wanted.

"I don't want pie, I want a carrot cake, please."

Oh. No problem. Pie dough freezes beautifully.

Lainie's Simple Loaf of Meat
(please note this makes quite the meat zeppelin - the recipe is intentionally large to accommodate the requisite meatloaf sandwich that is a MUST the next day - you can easily halve the recipe)

Olive oil
1 large onion, diced
6 cloves of garlic, minced
1/2 bunch flat leaf Italian parsley, stemmed and finely chopped
3 1/2 lbs. ground beef (80/20 is best. . any leaner and it will be dry)
1/2 cup Parmesan cheese
4 eggs
1 cup bread crumbs (fresh is best - but if you don't have fresh, store bought will do but I will cry. . you don't want to see me cry, do you?)
1 cup whole milk
1/2 cup ketchup
2 T. tomato paste
3 T Worcestershire sauce
1 good squirt sriracha (back in the day I used tabasco, but Rooster sauce is the new tabasco)
Salt & pepper

Heat olive oil and add onions, sauteing until translucent. Add garlic and season mixture with salt and pepper, stirring over low heat - make sure the garlic does not burn. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, add chopped parsley. Add onion/garlic mixture to the parsley in the bowl and mix together to wilt the parsley. Let the mixture cool. Add remaining ingredients and mix thoroughly with your hands. . .really working all the ingredients together. Fry up a small patty and taste for season. Add more salt and pepper if needed. Turn the mixture into a roasting pan and shape into a loaf - it ain't pretty but it will be delicious.

Glaze:
1 cup ketchup
2 T. tomato paste
Squirt of Sriracha (not too much - even if you love the stuff, it goes a long way here)
1/2 cup brown sugar

Whisk the glaze ingredients together until sugar is incorporated. Top the meat loaf with the glaze, covering it evenly.

Bake at 350 for 50 minutes to 1 hour.

Remove from oven and let rest at least 15 minutes before serving.

naked!

glazed!

cooked!

Elaine-O's (aka the best mashed potatoes in the world)
I know that's a tall statement but these are pretty damn good - they aren't fancy like the potato/butter/cream puree you get at a restaurant. These are homey and somewhat homely - lumpy in a good way.

4 russet potatoes, peeled and cubed
4 large Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cubed
2 sticks butter (I ain't playin')
1 8 oz. package cream cheese
1/4 cup sour cream
1/2 cup milk
salt and freshly ground pepper

Cook the potatoes in highly salted water until very tender. Drain well. In the same pot you cooked the potatoes in, melt the butter and add the milk to heat through. Return the potatoes to the pot. Add the cream cheese, sour cream, salt & freshly ground pepper. Mash well being careful no to overwork the potatoes as they will get gluey. Taste for season, adjust if necessary.

Hella Elaine-O's!

Peas
So my intention was to buy fresh English peas to shell and cook but the ones I found at two different stores were disappointing. I ended up getting frozen organic ones and I was happy with them. The only thing I do to peas that might be a little different is that I cook them, drain them and then I brown some butter in a pan - just until it gets the slightest tint, I add the peas back, add a little salt, pepper and a tiny pinch of sugar and saute them in the brown butter - the brown butter adds a nice, nutty nuance to the peas.
Grub!

Mile High Carrot Cake with Cream Cheese Frosting

This is a recipe I have been making for years. It is adapted from the Silver Palate Cookbook and what attracted me to this recipe was the fact that it uses pureed carrots instead of shredded ones. It is supremely moist and delicious. I also amp up the spice profile quite a bit as the original recipe only has cinnamon in it. I also add golden raisins because I like them in this cake. Other than cooking and pureeing the carrots, this cake comes together really quickly.

3 cups flour
3 cups sugar
1 t. salt
1 T. baking soda
1 T. ground cinnamon
1/2 t. ground nutmeg
1/2 t. ground ginger
1/2 t. ground cloves
1 1/2 cups corn oil
4 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 T. vanilla
1 1/2 cups chopped walnuts
1 1/2 cups shredded coconut
1 1/3 cups pureed carrots (about three)
3/4 cup drained crushed pineapple
1 cup golden raisins (optional)

Preheat oven to 350F. Grease and line two 9-inch pans with parchment paper.
Sift dry ingredients together into a large bowl. Add oil, eggs and vanilla. Beat well. Fold in walnuts, carrots, coconut, pineapple and raisins. Place in prepared pans (they will seem alarmingly full but the cake does not overflow!) - bake 35 to 40 minutes until the edges have pulled away from the sides and the centers are set. Cool and frost.

Cream Cheese Frosting
I CANNOT stand frostings that are powdered sugar based. They taste sandy to me and I can always detect the cornstarch in the powdered sugar. This is my own version and it's smooth, creamy and tangy.

3 - 8 oz. packages cream cheese
1 1/2 cup sugar
1 stick butter
1 T. vanilla
Juice of 1 lemon

Beat the cream cheese with the sugar until the mixture is light and fluffy and the sugar has dissolved into the cream cheese (about 7 minutes), add the butter, vanilla and lemon juice. Beat until smooth. If the frosting is too loose, let it rest until it's spreadable.

Split the cake layers in half. Frost and fill all layers.

cake!

Let's make. . . reservations!

2009-08-02T14:13:00.000-07:00

So, usually I make a good Sunday night supper. . something comforting and rib sticking. My friend Nicole came over and we were visiting and talking and having a wonderful time. The sun started to go down and our bellies started growling. . . I had a chicken ready to be roasted but we decided that we didn't want to wait for it to cook, so off to A Cote Restaurant we went. A few glasses of nice wine, a nectarine and prosciutto flatbread, wood oven roasted game hen with panzanella, a nice cheese plate with a perfectly ripe Brebiou and a dessert, of course and we were happy and sated. Which proves the point that sometimes the best thing to make for dinner is a reservation!

A Cote Restaurant
5478 College Ave
(between Forest St & Kales Ave)
Oakland, CA 94618
(510) 655-6469
www.acoterestaurant.com

Let's make. . . Dinner!

2009-08-01T13:56:00.000-07:00

Inspired by this article for the New York Time by Michael Pollan, I decided to dip my toes back into the blogging waters by writing about what I cook/eat for dinner for one month.

Sure, the article is long but it does touch on some important topics - why are we always in such a rush to get things on the table? Why is it so valued to do things the fastest or more importantly, with the least effort? This is food. Fuel for our bodies. Why shouldn't we take the time to prepare something for ourselves that takes time or that has the best ingredients possible? I feel like it's time to put real love back into our food. Mr. Pollan mentions Julia Child in the beginning of the article. . .she is the reason I cook - she is the first person to ever show me that cooking can be a joy instead of a chore. Both my grandmothers were excellent cooks in their own way but they did it because they HAD to. My mother cooked because she HAD to and took no joy in putting food on our plates. Julia was the first person I ever saw who actually smiled as she cooked. .. and I realized that cooking and sharing food could feed not only your belly, but your soul.

That being said, my month of dinners started off with me going out. Tonight I ended up going to my favorite Vietnamese restaurant - Bodega Bistro. I had their superlative Papaya Salad, Pot Stickers (yes, it's a Vietnamese restaurant but OH MAN can they make a mean Pot Sticker!) and Shaking Beef. Just the right thing to start off my weekend.

Bodega Bistro
607 Larkin St
San Francisco, CA 94109
(415) 921-1218
www.bodegabistrosf.com

Let's Make . . . Christmas Eve Dinner!

2009-01-13T15:42:00.001-08:00

I have been in a snit over this meal since Christmas Eve. I am not happy with the photo editorial for this one but was supremely happy with the end result of the actual meal. So to post or not to post? It gave me writer's block! So here it is. I will tell you now that you don't see the finished product because my camera had technical difficulties. . I also realized with this entry that I seriously need a tripod so I can show how to cut down meat more effectively. I am absolutely my own worst critic and whenever I cook I can only seem to tell you what is wrong with the meal instead of what is right. This time, my inner dialog had zero complaints. It was one of the best meals I have ever made. Prepare the meat and filling first so you have the caramelized onions you need for the gratin.

I was just going to do a whole roasted filet but then I got the initial idea for the stuffed roast from watching American's Test Kitchen - the meat recipe is loosely based on their recipe.

Caramelized Onion/Gruyere Potato Gratin

4 lbs Yukon Gold "A" (medium sized potatoes - not the baby ones)
Reserved caramelized onions from recipe below
4 cups heavy cream
4 sprigs fresh thyme
4 cloves peeled garlic, smashed
2 shallots, roughly diced
1/2 t. freshly grated nutmeg
12 oz gruyere cheese, sliced or grated
4 oz. grated parmesan cheese (the real stuff, please!)
salt & pepper
4 oz. butter, soft

Combine the cream, thyme, nutmeg, garlic, shallots, a big pinch of salt & lots of freshly ground pepper - heat to a simmer and set aside to infuse while you prepare the rest of the gratin.
Pick two of the most uniformly round potatoes and set them aside - you are going to use these for your top layer. Slice the potatoes very thinly (here I am using a Benriner Japanese slicer - worth the $20.00 investment if you don't have one.)

Butter a baking dish. Layer the potatoes - this is where you will use the irregularly shaped potatoes.

Add half the caramelized onions and season well with salt and pepper.

Add cheese - I just happened to have sliced but grated is fine, too. Make another layer of potatoes, onion, seasoning and cheese.

Slice the reserved potatoes and arrange them atop the gratin in even rows. Season the top with salt and pepper.

Strain the cream mixture and pour evenly over the gratin.

Sprinkle evenly with parmesan cheese, dot with butter. Bake at 350 for 1 hour and 1/2 hour. If it starts to brown too much, cover loosely with foil.

The finished gratin. If I had to do over, I probably would have put foil over it in the last half hour of cooking but those browned bits were actually quite delicious!

Porcini Stuffed Beef Tenderloin

8 yellow onions
1/4 cup olive oil
4 oz. butter
1lb. frozen porcini mushrooms
1 cup madeira
1 T. chopped, fresh thyme
2 cloves garlic, chopped finely
1 whole beef tenderloin roast, 8lbs. (aka PSMO)
Salt, freshly ground pepper, olive oil

Compound Butter:
6 oz. Butter, soft
1/4 cup fresh parsley
2 t. fresh thyme, finely chopped
1 large clove garlic, finely chopped
1 T. whole grain mustard
lemon zest from 1/2 lemon
salt & pepper to taste

Combine all the ingredients for the compound butter in a food processor. Pulse until all the herbs are finely chopped and it is well combined. Taste for seasoning, adjust. Set the butter aside but keep it soft.Peel and halve onions

Thinly slice the onions - when I have something this monotonous to do, I time myself to make it a game. This took me two minutes - a personal best!

Heat a heavy bottomed pan. Add butter and olive oil; heat until butter is melted and foamy.

Add onions to the pan, it will be quite full. Carefully stir the onions to coat with the oil/butter mixture and leave it alone. . low and slow, stirring occasionally.

The onions are now opaque and soft. Season with salt and pepper; continue to cook, stirring occasionally.

The onions are done! Remove about 1/3 of the onions and set them aside. Keep heat at low while you prepare the porcinis.

I ended up using frozen porcinis because the fresh ones I could find were wormy and very expensive. While the thawed frozen ones are none too pretty, for this preparation they are perfect!

Finely puree the porcinis in a food processor. Increase the heat on the onions to high and add the puree.

At this point in the game, it's not pretty. Stir the onions and pureed mushrooms well, reduce the heat and let cook down.

Once the mixture is reduced as seen in the picture, add the madeira and reduce again.

Add garlic, thyme, salt & freshly ground pepper to taste. Saute briefly.

Spread the mixture evenly on a sheet pan and set aside to cool while you prepare the meat.

Here's the BEEF!

A very brief lesson on Whole Beef Tenderloin. The most common is the PSMO (pismo) which the whole tenderloin, most of the fat removed, the side muscle intact (aka "chain") with silver skin still intact. We all know what a filet mignon is. This is the cut it originates from. The PSMO has a balled end and a tapered end. The larger end is known as the Butt Tenderloin and it's where larger filets are cut from. If you order a filet mignon at a restaurant and receive one that has what looks almost like two pieces, then that is a filet cut from the Butt (hee hee!). The middle is known as the Chateaubriand and this is the best part of the whole tenderloin it is sometimes served as a roast for two in restaurants. This is the part we are going to use for our roast. The tapered end is known as the Short Tenderloin. You get your petite filet mignons, tournedos and tenderloin tips from this part of the cut. Another well known preparation from this cut is from the butt tenderloin to just where the meat starts to taper off is called a Filet Roast. In this picture, you can see where I started to remove the silver skin toward the butt end. A lot of membranes/fat can be removed by hand but the silver skin is quite stubborn. It's a good practice to pierce the silver skin with the tip of a sharp knife and then run the knife in the other direction, AWAY from the meat and toward the silver skin. . .you want to be careful to remove only silver skin with very little meat. It takes practice and patience (this is where a tripod would have been monumentally helpful).

I like to run my hand along the tenderloin and pull off whatever membranes I can with my hand. You can pretty much remove the side muscle, or "chain", up to the Butt end, then you have to gingerly remove it with your knife. As you work your way up the chain, you will see a lot of silver skin and fibers where the meat connects at the Butt end. Carefully trim all that away. Save the chain meat to grind for burgers or if you have a spectacularly spoiled dog, cut it into little pieces and share the wealth with your canine friend.

I wanted only the chateaubriand but needed a larger piece than the average 2lb. yield. To achieve that, I cut up closer on the Butt end to get a large roast. My knife demarcates where a true Chateaubriand would end. Note the butt end, Short end and chain. Lots of meat left over. I made an amazing Beef Stroganoff the next day for Christmas Day supper - it was incredible!

Now, we are going to "book" the meat. As in open it like a book. When working with a piece of meat this expensive, it is somewhat daunting but go slowly, delicately guiding your knife with little force - let the sharpness of your knife do the work. You are going to open the meat into thirds. So first, starting about an inch from the bottom, start cutting towards the middle - go slowly and carefully. When you get to the middle stop without cutting all the way through. Carefully "open" the meat.

Take a deep breath. Let's book the next part. Again, guide your knife about 1 inch from the bottom of the thickest piece of the meat - stopping just as you reach the end of the roast. Carefully "open" the meat.

Phew!

Season the meat liberally with salt and pepper.

Spread the cooled filling evenly over the meat.

Arrange butcher's twine in eight 1-inch intervals on top of your cutting board. Gently but firmly, roll the roast into a compact cylinder. Some of the filling might squeeze out but that's okay. Tie the ends off first.

Continue to tie off the meat securely but not too tightly. At this point, you can chill the meat until you're ready to use it. Make sure to bring it to room temperature for 45 minutes before you brown it.

Heat oil in a large pan. Season the outside of the meat liberally with salt and freshly ground pepper.

Brown all four sides.

Heat oven to 450F. Place the roast on a rack and roast for 20 minutes for medium rare. Tent with foil and let rest for 15 minutes before slicing. Keep the string on and use it as a guide for slicing. Remove string after plating each slice.

AND THIS IS WHERE I START TO CRY!! The little red button on my camera started flashing and it was done. :( Sorry, friends, that you don't get to see the final plate up. It was lovely. A nice square of the potato gratin in the center of the plate, sauteed savoy cabbage with little nueske's bacon lardon surrounding the gratin and in the center. . .a beautifully rare spiral of tenderloin with the compound butter dripping down the side. Seriously amazing.

Let's Make. . . Arroz con Pollo

2008-12-16T15:34:00.000-08:00

Arroz con Pollo or Chicken with Rice is one of those dishes that has eleventy million permutations in the Latin American world. There is Spanish style, Mexican style, Puerto Rican style, etc. This here is Lainie style. It's a really wonderful one pot meal that is quick to make.

Arroz con Pollo

6 chicken breasts or 8 thighs, boneless, skinless
good quality olive oil
1 large onion, finely diced
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 3.5 oz. jar capers, drained
1 14.5 oz can diced tomatoes, drained (I like Muir Glen fire roasted tomatoes)
1 bunch cilantro, stemmed and chopped
3 cups long grain white rice (I like Mahatma)
6 cups chicken stock (low fat canned or boxed broth is fine)
8 whole jalapenos (not a typo. . .trust me!), washed well
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
salt & freshly ground pepper

Heat olive oil in a heavy bottomed pot that has a tight fitting lid.

Season chicken liberally with salt and pepper.

Sear the chicken on both sides, cooking it completely but make sure it is *just done* even a tiny bit pink in the center.

Remove the chicken from the pot and set aside.

Check out the beautiful fond. . . pure chicken-y goodness!

Add a little more olive oil and then add the diced onion. . .use the onion to scrape up any bits of caramelization from the bottom of the pot.

Once the onion is opaque and tender, turn up the heat and add the rice. Stirring constantly, fry the rice until the pieces are opaque and lightly golden. Add the garlic and saute very briefly to avoid scorching the garlic.

Add the chicken stock keeping in mind that it will bubble up like sizzling rice soup. Add the cilantro, tomatoes, capers, cumin, and jalapenos. Stir well and taste. Adjust salt and pepper keeping in mind that the degree of seasoning in the broth will be what flavors your rice. . don't be afraid of the salt and pepper! Bring to a simmer, reduce heat to low and cover. DO NOT raise the lid for 25 minutes. While you're waiting for the rice to cook, shred the chicken by hand.

Done!

Once the rice is done, carefully stir in the chicken and distribute all the ingredients together.

I like to serve this with pieces of fresh avocado, crema, refried beans and hot tortillas. I like to eat a piece of jalapeno with each bite! For those of you who do not like spice, keep in mind that the jalapenos remain intact and add definite flavor but no heat to the final dish.

Let's Make. . . Meatballs

2008-12-06T16:11:00.000-08:00

I like a nice meatball! After playing around with many a recipe, I think this one is nice. . .balanced, meaty yet tender and holds up well to a nice long braise. Meatballs are easy to make. . .it just takes time and patience to shape, dredge and brown them. The effort is worth it!

1 small yellow onion, finely diced
1 small clove garlic, chopped very fine
Olive oil
1/2 loaf Italian bread (cut off crust, shred by hand. . about two cups)
1 1/2 cups whole milk
3/4 lb. ground beef
3/4 lb. ground veal
3/4 lb. ground pork
3 eggs
1/2 cup Italian parsley, finely chopped
3/4 grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (don't mess around - use the real stuff please!)
salt, pepper and a big pinch of peperoncini (red chile flakes)
Flour for dredging the meatballs

Heat the olive oil and saute the onion until it's tender and opaque, add the garlic and chile flakes and cook until the garlic is tender and fragrant - resist the urge to add more garlic. . .too much garlic throws off the balance of the meatballs. Season with salt and pepper. Set the onion mixture aside to cool.

Pour the milk over the bread pieces and let them soak. As the bread soaks up the milk, work the bread and milk together until you have a thick paste.

Combine the three meats, eggs, parsely, cheese, cooled onion mixture, and bread & milk mixture. Don't be afraid to really work the mixture but don't become overzealous as that can result in a tough meatball. Season well with salt and pepper (keeping in mind the cheese is somewhat salty).

Fry up a patty and taste (this is also knows as COOK'S BONUS!). . adjust seasoning as needed.

Portion the meatballs in to 2 oz. pieces. Roll gently between your hands to form nice, even balls. Season flour with salt & pepper and heat olive oil in a large, heavy bottomed pot. Dredge the meatballs with flour, shake off excess and evenly brown on all sides.

Drain well and either add to sauce for Macaroni & Gravy (as seen above) or braise in a simple sugo and serve with crusty Italian bread.

Let's Make. . . Macaroni & Gravy

2008-12-04T19:00:00.000-08:00

This is a simple sauce. .. it takes about an hour of prep. . .then, in a perfect world, 8 hours to slowly simmer atop the stove and a night to rest in the refrigerator so the flavors meld and marry. Also known as Da' Sauce.

I learned how to make this sauce from Macario Lullo who was the father of a woman I worked for. Mac's family was from Naples and he was an old school Italian guy from Southside Chicago who drove a big ol' Cadillac and smoked smelly cigars. Not a teddy bear at all, sort of gruff and cranky. The way he showed his love for his family was through cooking. When he made this sauce, it was his way of giving us all a hug. This sauce is pretty close to the Macster's - I think a little cigar ash might be missing but I am okay with that!

Neapolitan Gravy
3 28 oz. cans tomato sauce
1 28 oz. can san marzano crushed tomatoes
tomato paste in a tube
6 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1/4 bunch Italian parsley, finely chopped
big pinch peperoncini (red pepper flakes)
olive oil

1 lb. (about three links) hot Italian sausage
2 lbs. chicken breasts or thighs
1 1/2 lb. chuck or stew meat
Meatballs*

In a large, heavy bottomed pot, heat 4 tablespoons of oil over medium heat.

Add garlic and carefully saute until it is fragrant and slightly opaque being very careful not to let it color.

Add the pepperoncini and saute until fragrant.

Add tomato sauce, crushed tomatoes, a good squirt of tomato paste and Italian parsley. Bring to a simmer, lower heat and let cook. Meanwhile. . .

About five hours into the cooking time, in a large saute pan, brown the sausage until it is cooked through. Remove the sausages, set them aside. Pour out any grease.

Using about 1/4 cup of water, deglaze the pan, scraping up all the browned bits and add the deglazing liquid to the tomato sauce.

Brown the chicken, deglaze the pan, add the liquid to the tomato sauce. Brown the chuck meat, deglaze the pan, add the liquid to the tomato sauce. Brown the meatballs*, deglaze the pan, add the liquid to the tomato sauce.

MEAT!

Add all the meat to the sauce and let everything simmer together for two 1/2 hours. If you have will of steel. . .put the sauce in the refrigerator and reheat the next day. If your will is weak, slice a piece of soft Italian bread, ladle some sauce atop the bread, sprinkle with freshly grated parmigianno reggiano (use that pre-grated junk and the ghost of Macario Lullo will torment you!) and enjoy that as a snack. Now put that sauce in the fridge because it is MUCH better the next day!

When it's time to bring on the sauce, remove any grease from the surface while it's cold. Heat gently until it's simmering and the meat is cooked through. Using tongs, separate the meat from the sauce.

Cook some penne rigate (I like deCiccio), toss some pasta with the sauce and serve that along with the platter of meat, a big bowl of grated cheese and a ladle so people can add more gravy as they like.

Make a silent toast to the Macster for a nice legacy of deliciousness.

*meatball recipe to follow soon!

Let's Make. . . Turkey Soup

2008-12-04T17:04:00.000-08:00

There is a trade off when you deep fry a turkey. . .you lose the ability to make gravy from the drippings of a roasted turkey but what you gain is a gorgeous carcass with which to make a nice soup! By frying the turkey, all the rich gelatin and juices are sealed in the turkey and you end up with a rich, delicious turkey broth!

1 turkey carcass
2 carrots, peeled and roughly diced
1 yellow onion, peeled and quartered
4 ribs celery, roughly diced

Pick all the meat from the carcass and chop into uniform pieces. Combine the turkey carcass, carrots, onion and celery in a six quart stock pot, add water to cover and simmer for a minimum of two hours but no longer than four hours.

Strain. Skim the fat off the top of the stock. Bring the stock to a very low simmer.

2 roma tomatoes
2 oven-roasted roma tomatoes*
3 cloves peeled garlic
1/2 bunch cilantro, stems trimmed
1 jalapeno pepper (or to taste)
pinch of cumin
salt & pepper to taste
2 carrots, peeled and finely diced
4 oz. fine egg noodles (fideo)
olive oil

Combine the both kinds of tomatoes, garlic, cilantro, jalapeno, cumin, salt & pepper in a blender or use a stick blender to puree the salsa.

Add a little turkey stock to make a thick, well blended puree.

Heat about a tablespoon of olive oil in a small sauce pan until very hot, add the salsa, careful to avoid splatters.

Cook the salsa on high, until it reduces by two-thirds and a spoon run through it leaves a trail. Add the salsa to the turkey stock. Add the diced carrots.

In a large saute pan, heat about 2 tablespoons of olive oil until it is very hot. Add the noodles.

Gently saute the noodles until they are evenly toasted - taking care not to break up the noodles.

Carefully add the noodles to the turkey stock - the stock will bubble up like sizzling rice soup so add them slowly. Simmer the soup until the noodles are tender but not mushy, about ten minutes. Add turkey meat, taste and adjust salt and pepper.

Ladle into bowls and garnish with fresh chopped cilantro and cubes of ripe avocado.

*in the dead of winter when tomatoes have little flavor, I halve roma tomatoes, season them with salt and pepper, drizzle them with olive oil and slow roast them in a 300F oven until they are almost dry. These are great to have on hand to punch up salsas or pasta sauces.

Let's Make. . . Deep Fried Turkey

2008-11-30T21:46:00.001-08:00

In any social situation where someone asks you what you do and you answer "chef", you somehow automatically become the expert on all things culinary. ..so I have been asked countless times how I cook my Thanksgiving turkey. When I answer that I deep fry it, I am invariably asked what kind of "rig" I have. I have no rig other than a fabulous and well loved O'Keeffe & Merritt stove that is the best stove I have ever cooked on. This is my fifth year deep frying a turkey atop my trusty stove. I have been told that I am foolish to do it in my home but I really do believe that all it takes is common sense and a healthy respect for hot oil. Here is how I do it.

15-16 lb. brined turkey
35 lb. box of Peanut Oil
60 qt. stock pot
heat/liquid resistant gloves
Thermometer

The Victim. It has been brined for 12 hours, removed from the brine and refrigerated, uncovered, for another 12 hours. Remove the turkey from the refrigerator two hours before it's hot oil bath.

The "Rig" - sixty quart stockpot atop trusty O'Keeffe & Merritt Stove.

Add one 35 lb. container of peanut oil to the pot. The pot will be 1/3 full. . it is crucial that the pot is not overfilled. Set heat to high. Keep in mind it can take up to an hour for the oil to reach the correct temperature.

Once the oil is heated to at least 340F (maximum 350F) it is ready for the turkey.

Don the gloves!

Grabbing the two legs, VERY gently lower the turkey into the oil. It will bubble up slightly. The general rule is 3 minutes per pound plus 10 extra minutes. This 16 lb turkey took 58 minutes.

This is about half way through the cooking process - notice the slight color change.

As the turkey cooks, it will come up to the surface. Notice how the legs are jutting out of the oil. Perfect to grab and pull out of the oil. It is a good idea to have an assistant help you pull the turkey out of the oil - this year I did it alone and experienced my first and only error - the leg and thigh portion separated from the breast and wing portion. I felt it start to happen so I let it. I let the breast go gently back into the oil. I pulled the leg/thigh portion with the gloves and removed the breast/wing portion with tongs. Have ready a wadded up paper bag to rest and drain the turkey on.

Let the turkey rest for half an hour before you carve. We jumped the gun an started carving before I could take a picture of the whole turkey - no do-overs here! The turkey will be juicy, skin crisp and completely non-greasy. Easy and delicious!

Let's Make. . . Dog Food

2008-11-30T14:27:00.000-08:00

EDIT! So, Lou was having problems with um, well, poops. They were a little loose so my vet and I re-adjusted the recipe to suit LouLou's "special" needs. Reduced the veg and changed the carbs. . so now the only thing that goes into the pressure cooker is chicken, chicken gizzards & hearts, chicken livers, collard greens, white potatoes and sweet potatoes. The method still applies. I recently purchased a 40 quart pressure cooker and only have to make her food once a month which is so much easier. . but it is no joke cleaning that thing! :) She is doing very well.

Just for reference here is the basic break-down of the true BARF diet:
BY WEIGHT:
65% raw meaty bones
15% organ meats
15% vegatables
Plus a good multi-vitamin such as Canine Plus

3 lbs, 2 oz.

The most important thing I make in my kitchen is food for my dog, LouLou. I got her as a very, very young puppy and she always had digestive issues. I take her to a holistic vet who suggested the Paleolithic diet for her. She has been eating homemade food since she was two months old. My goal is to know exactly what is in her food and to have her live the longest, healthiest life possible. She did well on the food up until about 6 months ago when she stopped keeping up her weight and became thin. This happens sometimes with well muscled dogs - especially pit bulls. My vet told me to add carbohydrates to her diet in the form of oatmeal. She has bulked up nicely and has had no ill effects from adding the oatmeal. Just as you would check with you own doctor if you were radically changing your diet, please check with your vet about changing your dog's diet. Every dog is different and might need the recipe tweaked for his or her own best health. LouLou eats about a pound of food twice a day and one multi-vitamin daily.

This is what you will need to make a large batch of dog food. This batch fits into a Presto 23-quart pressure cooker.

6 4-5 pound whole chickens
2 pounds chicken gizzards/hearts
2 pounds chicken livers
2 1 pound pkg. Cut N' Clean collard greens (or mixed greens)
2 29-oz. cans Libby's Pumpkin (plain - not pie mix!)
1 18-oz canister Quaker Oats - Old-Fashioned Oats (not quick oats)
Water

Cook the collard greens with three cups of water in a separate pot. You can pack them in tightly and they will cook down.

Cook the greens until they are tender.

Meanwhile, using kitchen shears, butterfly the chicken along the backbone. I do this in the kitchen sink to make clean-up easier.

Pack the chicken in tightly.

Add the gizzards, hearts and liver, packing it in so there are no gaps.

Sprinkle in the oatmeal and the add the pumpkin, spreading it with a spatula so you have a smooth layer.

Place the greens and all the liquid from the pot on top of everything. The pot will be very full. This goes against the instructions with your pressure cooker. I have been making this food for two years and have never, ever had a problem. Of course, never leave the pot unattended - you need to stay home while the food is cooking to make sure the pressure stays stable. Add 4 cups of water and close the pressure cooker making sure all it is securely sealed. Heat should be on medium high. Once the pressure cooker gauge reaches 12 psi, adjust heat to maintain the pressure and cook for 2 1/2 hours. Turn off the heat and let the pressure settle until the gauge sets at zero and the safety valve releases.

I use an industrial sized potato masher to break down the food. You will see that the pressure has made the chicken bones soft - they will break up as you mix up the food - some large pieces may remain but they are safe for your dog to eat as they are soft and chewable.

I use 4-inch 1/3 pans to store the food in the freezer. This recipe yields enough food for approximately two weeks.

The happy and healthy girl - 52 lbs.!