Let's make. . .: October 2009

I have somewhat of an addiction to pumpkin. I love it! When fall rolls around, my mind turns to what I can do with this lovely little squash. This year I decided to make a marmalade with it and am very happy with the results. I use it as part of a composed dessert - Caramel Pudding, Brown Sugar Crema, Pumpkin Marmalade, Pepita Brittle and Pumpkin Gobs. See? PUMPKIN! My chef sometimes has to pull me back from the abyss and tell me to go easy with the pumpkin. :) I brought a little home the other night; added some ruby port and golden raisins, cooked it all together a little bit to let the raisins plump and the port to burn off and served it with roasted pork tenderloin - it was really very good!

Pumpkin Marmalade

10 cups granulated sugar
enough water to moisten sugar
1 cup cold water
8 small sugar pie pumpkins
2 organic navel oranges, thinly sliced
1 organic lemon, thinly sliced, seeds removed
3 granny smith apples, peeled and cut into small cubes
kosher salt
1 2-inch finger of fresh finger, sliced
3 4-inch pieces of Mexican Canela (ceylon cinnamon), broken in half (you can sub Cassia but I will cry)
2 nutmeg pods, smashed with a kitchen mallet
1 tablespoon whole cloves
Cheesecloth
Juice of one navel orange

Prepare the pumpkins by cutting them in half (I use a double handled cheese knife to do this - an excellent way to get rid of any agression) and cleaning all the seeds out. Place flesh down on a roasting pan, pour a small film of water on the pan and roast at 350 just until barely tender (about 45 minutes). Let the pumpkins cool. While the pumpkins are cooling, place the sugar in a heavy stainless steel pot and use just enough water to moisten the sugar. Cook the sugar to a dark amber. Remove from heat and add cold water to stop the cooking process - it will splatter so be very, very careful. Set aside. Process the oranges and lemon in a food processor until finely diced. Add the apple pieces and process gently.. you don't want the apple pieces to be as fine as the citrus pieces. Using a ceramic loop tool, gently scrape the pieces of pumpkin from the shells in long, even pieces. Dice into 1/2 inch pieces. Toss the citrus, apple, pumpkin and a good pinch of salt together. Set aside. Using a piece of cheesecloth and some butcher's twine, make a spice sachet with the spices and ginger, tie it up securely. Put the fruit mixture atop the sugar, nestle the sachet into the center. Tent with a vented parchment round and cook over low heat for two and 1/2 hours, stirring the mixture half way through. Remove the spice sachet, gently stir in orange juice and let cool to room temp before removing from the pan.

Dark Amber Caramel

A note on tools: If I were to one day morph into an Edward Scissorhands type creature, these are the tools I'd want for my hands. . . of course, there is the standard Y-peeler, a Dexter-Russell serrated paring knife which would cut down a whole wild boar if needed and a ceramic loop tool - perfect for coring any fruit with a core, removing the choke from an artichoke and generally being one bad ass cooking tool - all for the paltry sum of $2.99 at your local art store.