Monday, November 30, 2009

Let's Make . . . a Turkey Ballotine


This year, my mom hit me with the words that strike terror in my heart:

"Let's go to a restaurant for Thanksgiving this year."

Now the reason that this strikes terror in my heart is that I am sort of a control freak. The thought of leaving my Thanksgiving dinner to the hands of some overworked prep cook is beyond my comprehension. I know I need to get over myself. . .being as it was just going to be my mom and myself I should have just thrown in the kitchen towel and picked up my buffet plate. But I just could not. I felt like I was paying for my last Thanksgiving wherein I actually had my whole family around the table. . .a feat that had not been accomplished in almost ten years. Last year I had a great Thanksgiving and I was determined to have the same this year.

Since it was just the two of us, I thought I'd get a breast and fill it but somehow I ended up with a whole turkey. Fine. I decided to make a ballotine filled with a pork/turkey/egg yolk force meat. I roasted the bones to make a rich turkey pan jus to put over the slices of ballotine. It was delicious! Although next year I'd like a giant 20 lb. turkey and a table full of family and friends. :)

I got a small, organic Willie Bird turkey. It weighed a little over 10 lbs. Here is the process of boning the turkey:

Lovely little turkey - ready to be rid of it's bones. I am using my trusty global filet knife - great for boning out large birds. You run your knife carefully from one end of the back bone to the other and gently using your knife and fingers, work against the bone, using your knife to free the meat from the bone. You'll be surprised by how much of this you accomplish by just using your fingers and sense of touch. If you're squeamish about touching raw meat, use latex gloves.


The whole turkey boned out (please note that the "oysters' are intact - it takes a pro to pull that off!) - the only bones left are the leg bones which require careful work - you push the meat and bones towards you and then scrape the meat off with your knife.


The wing tips, Pope's Nose, Back and Breast Bones to be roasted to make stock.


This is the bird with all the bones, including the leg and wing bones removed.


All the dark meat removed - thigh meat reserved for forcemeat - ready to stuff.


Turkey thighs ready to be made into forcemeat!


Forcemeat!


Cook's bonus! Making sure seasoning is correct is a tough job!


Preparing the turkey to be filled - slit the thickest part of the breast so the thickness is uniform


Pound the turkey gently to get uniform thickness, being careful not to break the skin



Spread the force meat evenly over the seasoned turkey meat



Here is where I had to improvise because I could not find my trussing needle. . .usually you would sew the seams of the skin together in a "y" shape. Since I did not have my trussing needle, I rolled the ballontine which was fine but I would have rather sewed it. . .to seal one end I had to do this:
*hangs head in shame* Yes, it's true, I tied the leg skin in a knot. SHUT UP!



This is the rolled and tied ballontine - traditionally they are poached in broth or roasted - I fried mine!


GORGEOUS!!!



The finished product. . crispy skin, rich filling, tender and juicy meat!

Sunday, October 18, 2009

Let's Make . . . Pumpkin Marmalade

I have somewhat of an addiction to pumpkin. I love it! When fall rolls around, my mind turns to what I can do with this lovely little squash. This year I decided to make a marmalade with it and am very happy with the results. I use it as part of a composed dessert - Caramel Pudding, Brown Sugar Crema, Pumpkin Marmalade, Pepita Brittle and Pumpkin Gobs. See? PUMPKIN! My chef sometimes has to pull me back from the abyss and tell me to go easy with the pumpkin. :) I brought a little home the other night; added some ruby port and golden raisins, cooked it all together a little bit to let the raisins plump and the port to burn off and served it with roasted pork tenderloin - it was really very good!

Pumpkin Marmalade

10 cups granulated sugar
enough water to moisten sugar
1 cup cold water
8 small sugar pie pumpkins
2 organic navel oranges, thinly sliced
1 organic lemon, thinly sliced, seeds removed
3 granny smith apples, peeled and cut into small cubes
kosher salt
1 2-inch finger of fresh finger, sliced
3 4-inch pieces of Mexican Canela (ceylon cinnamon), broken in half (you can sub Cassia but I will cry)
2 nutmeg pods, smashed with a kitchen mallet
1 tablespoon whole cloves
Cheesecloth
Juice of one navel orange

Prepare the pumpkins by cutting them in half (I use a double handled cheese knife to do this - an excellent way to get rid of any agression) and cleaning all the seeds out. Place flesh down on a roasting pan, pour a small film of water on the pan and roast at 350 just until barely tender (about 45 minutes). Let the pumpkins cool. While the pumpkins are cooling, place the sugar in a heavy stainless steel pot and use just enough water to moisten the sugar. Cook the sugar to a dark amber. Remove from heat and add cold water to stop the cooking process - it will splatter so be very, very careful. Set aside. Process the oranges and lemon in a food processor until finely diced. Add the apple pieces and process gently.. you don't want the apple pieces to be as fine as the citrus pieces. Using a ceramic loop tool, gently scrape the pieces of pumpkin from the shells in long, even pieces. Dice into 1/2 inch pieces. Toss the citrus, apple, pumpkin and a good pinch of salt together. Set aside. Using a piece of cheesecloth and some butcher's twine, make a spice sachet with the spices and ginger, tie it up securely. Put the fruit mixture atop the sugar, nestle the sachet into the center. Tent with a vented parchment round and cook over low heat for two and 1/2 hours, stirring the mixture half way through. Remove the spice sachet, gently stir in orange juice and let cool to room temp before removing from the pan.

Dark Amber Caramel


A note on tools: If I were to one day morph into an Edward Scissorhands type creature, these are the tools I'd want for my hands. . . of course, there is the standard Y-peeler, a Dexter-Russell serrated paring knife which would cut down a whole wild boar if needed and a ceramic loop tool - perfect for coring any fruit with a core, removing the choke from an artichoke and generally being one bad ass cooking tool - all for the paltry sum of $2.99 at your local art store.

Processed citrus and apples

Using the ceramic loop to get uniform strips of pumpkin

Dice the pumpkin in even pieces

Toss everything together

Make spice sachet

Everything in the pot all cozy like


Parchment tent


Half way there - give it a stir!

Done!

Wednesday, August 12, 2009

Let's Make. . . Bucatini Carbonara

A few perfect ingredients!


This is a super quick, really satisfying meal. Ingredients are very important here because there are so few. . .farm fresh eggs, the best pasta you can get your hands on and excellent bacon or pancetta are key. Also, the cheese is key as well. Best ingredients, 15 minutes to prepare and probably one of the best dishes ever. This is Marcella Hazan's recipe which I think is the best recipe. No cream, no peas, no f'ing around. . straight up delicious.

Bucatini Carbonara

1/2 lb. pancetta or bacon, cut into 1/4 inch strips (I like to use Nueske's bacon)
4 garlic cloves
3 T. olive oil
1/4 cup dry white wine
2 large eggs
2 egg yolks*
1/4 cup freshly grated romano cheese
1/2 cup freshly grated pamigiano-reggiano
freshly ground black pepper
2 T. chopped Italian parsley
1 1/4 lbs. pasta - Marcella says it must be spaghetti but I like to make it with Phoenix Pasta's bucatini

Smash the garlic cloves, remove the skins and leave whole but smashed. Heat the olive oil, add the garlic and saute until the garlic is dark golden. Remove the garlic and discard it. Add the pancetta or bacon to the garlic scented oil and cook until they start to crisp around the edges (I cook it longer. .until it's crispy - I prefer it that way). Add the white wine to the bacon and cook for 2 minutes or until the alcohol smells burned off, turn off the heat.
In the same bowl you're going to add the pasta, combine the eggs, yolks*, cheeses, a VERY generous grinding of black pepper and parsley. Whisk well. Cook the pasta in well salted water to taste - I like my a little beyond al dente. Right before the pasta is done, heat the bacon mixture on high until very hot. Drain the pasta and immediately add the hot pasta to the cheese/egg mixture. Toss quickly and then add the hot bacon. Toss again and serve immediately with extra cheese and a pepper grinder handy.

* the extra yolks are my own idea. . the original recipe simply calls for the two eggs.


Delicioso!

Tuesday, August 11, 2009

Let's Make. . . Chile Verde




Chile Verde is one of my favorite Mexican stews. . .slow braised pork nestled in a roasted tomatillo sauce. . what could be better? Years and years ago, when recipe boards were a novel idea, someone asked for a recipe for chile verde. I posted one, adding the pinch of sugar my abuelita always added. That caused a riot of sorts. . .suddenly the recipe was not "authentic" because true chile verde or even salsa tomatillo would NEVER have sugar in it. Well, perhaps these people knew more than me or my grandmother but this is HER recipe and to me, it's authentic, sugar and all!

Chile Verde

3 lbs pork meat, butt or shoulder (I like butt *chortle*), trimmed, cut into 2" cubes
4 tablespoons olive oil or freshly rendered pork lard
2 lbs tomatillos, husked and rinsed
1/2 white onion, whole
3-4 green onions, white and green parts (remove roots after roasting)
2-3 poblano chiles
2 jalapenos (or more depending how spicy you like your food)
6 cloves garlic, unpeeled
1 bunch of cilantro
1 teaspoon dried Mexican oregano
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground toasted cumin
1 1/2 cups chicken stock or water
salt, pepper and a big pinch of sugar

Char is IMPORTANT!

Heat a comal, griddle or broiler and toast/roast the chiles, onion (flesh side down), garlic cloves (in husks) and tomatillos. Place the chiles in a plasic bag or bowl covered with plastic and let steam to loosen skin. Remove chile skins. Peel the toasted garlic and place the tomatillos, onions, chiles, garlic and cilantro in a blender and blend until you have a somewhat smooth puree. Set aside.

Don't overcrowd the meat to get a nice even brown!

Season the meat well with salt and pepper, brown meat cubes, doing so in batches so the meat browns nicely. Remove meat, set aside.



Be careful of splatters!

Turn the heat up and add the tomatillo salsa to the pot, it will splatter so use caution. Heat and reduce by 1/3. Add the meat, cumin, oregan, sugar, salt & pepper and the stock or water. Return to a low simmer and cook until the meat is fork tender - about 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Taste sauce and adjust seasoning.

Serve with warm tortillas, rice, beans and avocado.

Monday, August 10, 2009

Let's Make. . . Rice (uh, what?)

The Culprit

I don't really believe in psychotherapy. The whole "tell me about your parents" thing doesn't really make sense to me. While you might be influenced by your parents, eventually you reach an age and awareness where you have free will to make your own decisions. At some point, it's not mommy and daddy's fault you're f'd up, it's your own. The one thing I will plant firmly on my mom's shoulders is my obsession with good rice. You see, mom was a convenience cook. Betty Crocker Au Gratin Potatoes (heck, I used to like to eat the little potato wafers...like a giant super crispy weird ass potato chip), Bag N' Season Pot Roast (it's nubby, weird reconstituted green and red peppers and thin sauce), Pork Chops cooked in Lipton's Onion Soup Mix, Company Chicken made with Campbell's Cream of Mushroom Soup. . . all those I can live with. . in fact, sometimes I crave those things something fierce - especially Company Chicken. But one thing I never could get past was the dread MINUTE RICE. Sweet Mary Mother of Jesus, I hate that stuff. Reconstituted rice from which all texture and flavor has been removed. It wasn't until I was in 3rd grade that I learned the true delights of rice. I went to my friend Feli's house and her mom served chicken adobo over rice. It was a complete revelation for me. Feli's family was Filipino and like any good Filipino family they had a giant rice cooker from which scoops of steaming hot rice emerged. . .rice actually smelled good. It actually had texture and flavor. Oh my!

Being as I came from a non-real rice household, I had a hard time learning how to cook rice. I got all kinds of advice. .. get a rice cooker (um, no, not in my house . . . I was the only one so rice obsessed) measure the rice, cover it with enough water to come up to the first knuckle of your pinkie finger (index finger, pointer finger, etc. etc.). . . being as I have smaller than average hands, that never worked for me. Boil the rice in the water, turn it down and simmer for 15 minutes. Boil the water, add the rice, cover, boil for five minutes, take off heat and let rest for 15 minutes. .. a million different ways but none of them consistently gave me good rice. One day it dawned on me to read the package. .. uh, yeah...for long grain white rice it's two to one. . two parts liquid to one part rice. Boil the water, add the rice, cover tightly and simmer for 20 minutes. Remove from heat, let rest five minutes, fluff with fork. Et voila - perfect rice. I always add a dash of salt and sometimes a little nub of butter but that's pretty much it. Same for a rice pilaf, saute the rice with whatever aromatics you're going to use but the liquid/rice ratio stays the same. Perfect rice every time. Or I guess I should say perfect REAL rice every time. I am partial to Mahatma extra long grain white rice. . .sometimes I just eat it plain with butter or soy sauce just 'cause I can.

Perfect Long Grain White Rice

2 cups water (or chicken broth)
1 cup long grain white rice (I love Mahatma)
pinch of salt
nub of butter (optional)

Boil the water in a small pan with a tight fitting lid. Add rice, salt and butter, if using, and stir to combine. Bring the water back to a simmer, cover, put on lowest heat possible and cook, undisturbed (that means DO NOT lift that lid!) for 20 minutes. Remove from heat, let rest for five minutes. . fluff with fork (or alternatively, just eat by the forkful out of the pot!)

Leftover Boeuf Bourguignonne over plain ol' delicious white rice!

Sunday, August 9, 2009

Let's Make. . . Beef Bourguignonne


I have long planned on making this on the day that I go see the new Julie and Julia movie - little did I know what a big part this dish plays in the movie! Julia Child has always been an icon to me. There is a thread on Chowhound asking about people's "favorite Julia Child" moment and this is what I wrote, I wrote it off the cuff without thinking too much about it - it is straight from the heart:

"I know many, many people talk about how Julia influenced them and it's true for me as well. Julia came on PBS in the afternoon when I awoke from my nap and I loved her. . my mom would sit me in front of the television and I would watch, mesmerized by her - I loved her voice. When I was 14 years old I started to cook my way through Mastering the Art of French Cooking. To me, it was the greatest form of self-expression. It built my confidence and taught me what a pleasure it is to feed people food that your hands have created. When I wanted to go to cooking school after high school, I was told that I was "too smart" to be a cook. So I shelved those dreams for a while, all the while cooking out of Julia's books - Baking with Julia and Julia's Master Chef series. She was always so close to my heart. I finally went to cooking school later in life and actually met Julia Child once. She was doing a book signing with Jacques for their new book and I swear to god, for me, it was like meeting the Beatles! I was shaking and teary-eyed and as sweet and charming as Jacques was, I only had eyes for Julia. She looked me in the eye, asked my name, signed my book and then took my hand and it was electric. . . it's as though she instinctively knew how much she meant to me and she smiled. I tell you now, I almost fainted. I was working as an executive pastry chef at a vineyard in the middle of nowhere on August 13th 2004 - 18 hour day in an off-site kitchen that was very isolated. As I got in my car to drive home, I had many hang ups on my cellphone voice-mail. Weird. I was heading home - my commute was an hour. I turned on NPR and there was the dulcet tones of my beloved Julia. I was so happy and thought that they were doing a show about her since her birthday was coming up. Then they announced her death. I had to pull over and cry. And cry. And cry. The hang ups were loved ones trying to reach me to tell me about her death - not wanting to leave it on voice-mail to upset me. She left an indelible mark on my life and I just adored her."

As with almost every recipe I have ever made, I make the recipe as it is written and once I've made the recipe once, I kind of do my own thing from then on. As much as I adore Ms. Child I will say that the recipe layout of Mastering the Art of French Cooking is clunky and hard to follow. You have to keep in mind that when the book was published, it was groundbreaking and the layout best guides a cook new to a cuisine through the steps necessary to accomplish the correct results. There are points in some recipes where I actually question why I would have to do them. . . in the end, trust Julia. . .she was thorough and the recipes are meticulously tested and if you follow them, you will get good results. The following recipe is 75% Julia and 25% me. Two points that I have found imperative to perfect results are drying the meat well and roasting the meat/vegetables/flour to achieve the proper depth of flavor.


Boeuf a la Bourguignonne Julia/Lainie


1 lb. thick sliced bacon, cut into 1/2 inch lardons
4 lbs. beef stew meat, cut into 2-inch cubes
2 carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
2 yellow onions, diced
1/4 cup flour
1 750ml bottle red wine, Burgundy or any other robust red
4 cups beef stock (avoid canned if at all possible, if not, use low sodium)
1 T. tomato paste
4 garlic cloves, chopped finely
bouquet garni consisting of two bay leaves, one sprig of rosemary, 1 sprig of thyme, 1 teaspoon of black peppercorns and 2 sprigs of fresh parsley

2 lbs. mushrooms, quartered

Preheat the oven to 450F.

Prepare a bouquet garni by wrapping the herbs and peppercorns in cheesecloth and tying it with butcher's twine.Roll it up into a tight bundle.

Pretty!

Heat a large dutch oven, add bacon and cook until the bacon is fairly crispy.
Mmmmm, bacon!

Remove the bacon from the pan and ladle out about 3 tablespoons of the bacon fat. Set aside. And by aside, I mean move the bacon out of your reach or it's entirely possible to end up with less bacon then you need due to cook consumption. Ahem.

Dry the meat thoroughly - you can use paper towels but I have had great results with the lint-less bar mops I use in my kitchen.

Place a few pieces on a cutting board and season well - you want to do this step right before you add the meat to the pot - this is important. Add a small amount of olive oil to the bacon fat and heat until the the fat is almost smoking.

Add seasoned pieces of meat to the pot, being very careful not to crowd the meat. Leave it alone.

Let it brown well and when little dots of blood start to rise to the surface of the meat, turn the pieces and thoroughly brown the other side. Remove meat to a sheet pan and repeat the process until all the meat is browned. properly caramelized meat - lots of flavor up in there!

Add the onion and carrot to the hot pan and saute until the pan is deglazed of all the lovely brown bits.

Pour out any extra fat, leaving the vegetables in the pot. Take half the bacon and add that and the browned beef to the pot. Season with salt and pepper and sprinkle the flour over the meat and toss until all the meat is coated with flour.

Place in the oven and roast for 5 minutes. Remove from the oven, toss the meat around to expose new pieces to the direct heat and roast again for 5 more minutes.crusty!

Remove the pot from the oven and reduce the heat for 325F.

Stir the wine, stock, tomato paste, garlic, and bouquet garni.send the bouquet garni to it's winy grave.

Bring to a simmer atop the stove, cover and place in the oven. Regulate the heat so that the liquid barely simmers and cook for 2 1/2 to three hours until the meat is very tender when poked with a fork.* done!

Towards the end of the cooking time, prepare the mushrooms: Heat up the reserved bacon fat in a very large, heavy pan. When it's almost smoking, add butter and quickly add the mushrooms - doing it in batches if necessary to prevent overcrowding - maintain the heat on high and saute, the mushrooms should be sizzling. Season with salt and pepper. The mushrooms will give off liquid but the pan should be hot enough to reduce the liquid almost immediately - cook until the mushrooms are well browned and dry.no liquid left!

Add the remaining bacon and a handful of parsley. mmmmm bacon and mushrooms!


When the stew is done, remove the bouquet garni. thanks for all that flavor!

Pour the stew into a sieve set over a bowl.First time I did this, I forgot the bowl. :(

Pick out the pieces of carrot and discard (Julia does not do this, but I cannot stand mushy carrots so I pick them out - they've done their job flavoring the sauce). Put the meat aside and pour the sauce into the pot, skim any visible fat and reduce until you achieve a thick sauce so that when you run your finger across a wooden spoon your finger leaves a trail that does not close.Nappe!


Season the sauce and add the meat back to it, delicately napping the sauce over the meat. Place on a large serving platter and top with mushroom/bacon mixture. I am taking this to a friend's house so it stays in this and can be heated in the oven as is.

*if you can stand it, this stew is better the next day so you can cook it to that step and refrigerate overnight and finish the remaining steps the next day.

I like to serve this with pan roasted baby potatoes:

Pan Roasted Potatoes

1 lb. small red potatoes
1 lb. small yellow potatoes
1 stick butter
salt & pepper
handful parsley, chopped

Cook the each kind of potatoes seperately in highly salted water until they are tender. Remove from water and let cool on a sheet pan.


In a heavy pan, melt the butter until it's bubbling. Add potatoes to butter and turn heat to high. Shake the pan to roll the potatoes in butter and season well with salt and pepper.

Do this in batches if necessary so the potatoes are always in contact with the pan and wipe pan between batches, starting with fresh butter each time - cook until they are sizzling hot and the skins are crispy. When all the potatoes are cooked, toss with parsley.